Prep & Priming

Priming & Sealing.

Primer is not cheap paint. It is a different product doing a different job.

Painter cutting a crisp line along interior trim

On the job

Real work from Durham Region homes and job sites.

Taper applying joint compound to ceiling seams in a basementVacuum-assisted sanding of fresh drywall compoundLevel 5 smooth finished wall and ceiling in raking light

Most paint failures — flashing, peeling, bleed-through, banding over joints — are primer failures. The finish coat rarely gets blamed correctly.

We spec and apply the primer that matches your substrate and problem, whether that is new drywall, glossy trim, bare wood, water stains or a smoke-damaged ceiling.

What's included

  • Drywall sealer / PVA primer on new board
  • High-build primer-surfacer over level 5 skim coats
  • Bonding primer on gloss, varnish, laminate and tile
  • Shellac and oil stain blockers for water, smoke, tannin and marker
  • Vapour-retarding primers where the assembly requires it
  • Spray, roll or brush application with full masking

The details

Why new drywall must be sealed

Bare paper and dried compound absorb paint at completely different rates. Paint straight onto unsealed board and every taped joint shows as a dull band under side light. A dedicated drywall sealer equalises porosity.

Stain blocking

Water rings, nicotine, crayon and cedar tannin bleed through latex. They need a shellac- or oil-based blocker — no number of latex coats will bury them.

Common questions

Is self-priming paint enough?

On a previously painted, sound, similar-colour wall, yes. On new drywall, bare wood, stains or glossy surfaces, no.

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